Manuelle Lenkgetriebe haben keine Servounterstützung, so dass das Lenken für den Fahrer bei engen Kurven mühsamer ist. Autoenthusiasten entscheiden sich häufig für die manuelle Lenkung von Schienenfahrzeugen, da die Anwendung leicht ist und die Reaktion ideal für den Rennsport ist. Ab Werk sind handelsübliche Lenkgetriebe bei älteren Fahrzeugen häufiger anzutreffen. Da die meisten manuellen Lenkgetriebe auf dem Markt für ältere Anwendungen bestimmt sind, werden wir höchstwahrscheinlich nur umgebaute Optionen führen. Manchmal führen wir auch Power-to-Manual-Umrüstsätze mit (weitere Informationen zu unseren Kits finden Sie weiter unten).

Für ein normales Pendlerauto ist die Servolenkung die optimale Form der Lenkung. Servolenkungen haben eine zusätzliche Komponente, die Servolenkungspumpe, die die Zahnstange mit Hochdruckflüssigkeit versorgt und eine hydraulische Servounterstützung bietet. Dies erleichtert dem Fahrer das Lenken erheblich.

Elektrische Servolenkungen (Electric power steering EPS) sind wie Servolenkungen, außer dass sie elektronisch angetrieben werden. Die hydraulische Unterstützung, die Sie normalerweise von der Lenkpumpe erhalten würden, wird jetzt durch einen computergesteuerten Elektromotor ersetzt. Dies ist das neueste System, das Autohersteller in ihre Modelle integrieren, da durch den Wegfall der Pumpe der Kraftstoffverbrauch um etwa 1 mpg erhöht wird. Bei extrem alten oder seltenen Fahrzeugen sind Kerne manchmal schwer zu finden. Für den Fall, dass wir keine Kerne zur Verfügung haben, haben Sie die Möglichkeit, uns Ihren alten Kern zu senden, damit wir ihn neu erstellen können. Solange das Gehäuse des Racks nicht beschädigt oder gerissen ist, können wir das Rack für Sie umbauen. In der Regel beträgt die Bearbeitungszeit für den Wiederaufbau von Lenkgetrieben 2 Wochen.

If your car is wandering on the road, both at low speeds and high speeds, it’s a sign that the steering rack has gone bad. You’ll need to constantly correct the direction and holding the wheel in place will take much more work than usual. Sometimes this problem can be attributed to your wheels being out of alignment, but with a bad steering rack, the tires will show unusual wear specifically on the inside or outside of the tire, rather than all over like an alignment issue will cause.

With a bad steering rack there tends to be a so-called “numb spot” in the center of the steering mechanism. Between about 11 o’clock and 1 o’clock there might be little response, a certain indication that there are steering rack problems.

If the steering wheel shakes when moving at higher speeds, coupled with too much play in the wheel, the steering rack has probably gone bad and needs to be replaced. Apart from anything else, the lack of control with a wheel shaking can prove to be dangerous, especially on freeways when you have a regular commute.

If your power steering fluid levels keep dropping, even after you’ve topped it off, then it’s time to have the steering rack looked at and possibly replaced. Check fluid levels regularly and look for other signs in conjunction with this one so you can be sure this is a steering rack issue and not just a fluid leak.

Sometimes when this part is going bad, or more specifically if it’s loose, you can hear a thudding, clunking, or frequently knocking as you drive. Even if your problem doesn’t turn out to be a steering rack malfunction, noises like these should always be investigated by a professional quickly. Don’t just look for one of these symptoms, as some of these things can be caused by more than one problem with your vehicle. If you notice any of these signs, look specifically for some of the others so you can know for sure that your steering rack is the cause.

• Jack
• Jack stands
• Wrenches
• Ratchet and socket set with extensions
• Screwdrivers
• Pliers or vise grips
• Hammer
• Wire brush
• Tie rod separator or ball joint fork
• Engine support fixture (If required)
• Power steering filter
• Power steering fluid
• Automatic transmission fluid
• New power steering rack
• Latex gloves (Optional)
Step1: Put the wheels in a straight-ahead position. The steering wheel should be in the center position. Remove the key from the ignition and make sure the steering wheel is locked. You do not want the steering wheel to turn while removing the rack. Doing so will make it possible for the spiral cable in the steering wheel to unwind and become useless.
Step2: Crack loose all the wheel lug nuts
Step3: Raise and support the vehicle with approved jack stands.
Step4: Remove both front wheels.
Step5: Remove the Steering Shaft Coupler Outer Seal and unbolt the upper pinch bolt on the Steering Shaft Coupler assembly.
Step6: Detach the outer tie rod ends. You may need to use a special tie rod end puller to get them off. You can rent one at the local rental store. Most times a sharp rap with a BFH on the end of the tie rod mount will shock it loose. Do not hit the tie rod end itself.
Step7: Remove any parts required to gain access to the rack mounting bolts, lines and steering coupling.
Step8: Depending on accessibility, at this point, you can remove the power steering rack mounting bolts, or crack the power steering high pressure and return lines.
Step9: Depending on accessibility, at this point, you can remove the power steering rack mounting bolts, or crack the power steering high pressure and return lines. It may be easier to get a wrench to swing on a power steering line fitting once you've unbolted the rack and moved it a bit. Also, reattaching the lines may be easier before the new rack is bolted in place.
Step10: Place a drain pan under the vehicle and remove the hydraulic power steering pressure hose and power steering return hose from the power steering rack.
Step11: Now comes the fun part, twist and turn and jiggle it out through one of the wheel well openings. Make sure the kids are in the house because certain words will be necessary to coax the rack out and they are not words little ears should hear.
Step12: If the new rack has new tie rod ends, measure the overall length of the old rack and tie rod assembly. Set the overall length of the new assembly to this same dimension by twisting the tie rod ends on their threads. Keep the rack centered and split the overlap difference between the left and right rod ends as you do this, or the steering wheel will be off-center when you're done.
Step13: If you are reusing the old tie rod ends, crack the lock nuts loose. Count how many full turns it takes to remove the tie rod ends. Center the new rack and install tie rod ends the same number of turns on the new rack. Again, check the overall length and split the difference.
Step14: Install the new rack using the same words you used to get it out.
Step15 Reconnect the power steering lines, using new "O" rings, if required. Usually, the high-pressure line uses a slightly larger "O" ring so be careful not to mix them up.
Step16: Reconnect the Steering Shaft Coupler assembly and bolt the rack back into place.
Step17: Reattach the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Use new cotter pins for the castellated nuts; never reuse the old cotter pins.
Step18: Put the wheels back on and torque the lug nuts to specifications.
Step19: Remove the return line from the power steering pump and place the end into a bucket.
Step20: Fill the power steering pump and start the engine until clean fluid comes out of the return hose. You may be able to install an inline filter in the return line to protect the new rack. I have known guys who have used fuel filters for this purpose.
Step21: Have the front end aligned to reset the toe-in adjustment to specification or the vehicle will handle poorly and wear out the tire quickly.